It seemed no time at all between the two hour ten minute flight from Heathrow with the Hungarian Malev Airline, then the ten mile transfer in a waiting taxi from Ferihegy Airport, and our arrival at the luxurious Gellert Spa Hotel on the peaceful Buda side of Budapest overlooking the glorious River Danube.
Nothing we had read about Budapest prepared us for the delights we were about to see and experience in this fascinating city. Expectations were entirely different from the reality.
Why did we imagine we were visiting an oppressed Eastern-Bloc country? The very mention of Budapest conjured up images of the 1956 Uprising against Communist rule, the Soviet tanks mowing people down in front of the Parliament buildings and the three hundred thousand Hungarians who fled the country seeking asylum. Imagine having your first free elections in 1900? I found the history of Budapest very moving as it is related to the visitor in its proud displays of statues and monuments of war heroes, museums, palaces and art galleries.
There are over sixty museums and art galleries in Budapest ranging from international collections (Why do I still get excited when I see an original Turner or a Van Gogh?) and others such as the Hungarian National Museum and more local interests. The city is a feast to wonder over and to be impressed by.
Although we had booked for one week in the Gellert with its choice of several restaurants, on our first evening we were compelled to explore both Buda and Pest so we began our adventures by walking across the Elizabeth bridge, one of several, to Pest. We found ourselves promenading along the stylishly illuminated Vaci Street, the fashionable shopping area with spectacular statues, fountains, cafes and bars.
Before long we were experiencing our first Hungarian meal of Goose Livers and Pancakes with Sheep's Cheese and Dill, washed down with local beer and wine in a terrace restaurant on the Eastern Bank of the Danube with a spectacular view of the Royal Palace, and the funicular railway we planned for the next day, across the twinkling river. We also had our first taste of the Hungarian Gypsy violinist serenading me to Lara's Theme, the first of many!!!!!!!!!
The continental climate, with very hot summers and extreme winters, meant that September was an ideal time to visit as July and August are very hot indeed, and Budapest is a city meant to be explored on foot. Although there is an excellent public transport system of taxis, buses, trams and taxis, walking everywhere allowed us to soak up the atmosphere as well us giving us the excuse to take frequent breaks in the many pavement bars and cafes for excellent coffee and icy cold beers.
There are a total of thirty one spa-water pools and thermal baths in Budapest fed by the mineral rich hot springs deep inside the earth. These are government subsidised and regarded as a very important aspect of Budapest culture with health giving qualities. Several of the original Turkish built baths from the 16th Century remains in operation. One of the most stunning examples of Ottoman architecture, the Rudas, is for men only with no need to wear a bathing suit as a small apron is provided!
So every morning, after a swim in the Gellert's marble columned indoor swimming pool and an excellent breakfast, we'd plan our day. Just think architecture and history and culture. From Roman amphitheatres, medieval monuments, the Gothic period, the Turkish remains, the Baroque style of the Hapsburgs and the Neo-Classical structures all telling their own story of invasion, destroying and rebuilding as each new invader appeared to raze the existing city to the ground and set about rebuilding in their own style.
As a break from buildings there are numerous parks and gardens to relax in. The one we enjoyed the most was on Margaret Island set right in the middle of the Danube with views of Buda and Pest from either side. It is a car free, green haven of beauty right in the centre of the city and accessible by a small bridge leading from Margaret Bridge. Originally, since the 11th Century, Margaret Island has been a retreat for religious contemplation. After walking all round the island, through the Japanese Gardens, listening and watching a huge musical fountain, clambering over Gothic ruins, the only contemplation we wanted was a cold beer and a lunch of Hungarian Fish Soup in a restaurant floating on a lake.
Of course there's always shopping. If you are interested in porcelain, folk culture, antiques, a string of paprika, the fine Tokaji desert wine and something I wish I had bought! A couple of bottles of Hungarian Liqueurs, the fiery Palinka made from plums or cherries and a delicious herbal liqueur called Unicom. Never mind.
We found our money went a long way in Budapest. The visitor can spend as much or as little as they feel inclined or afford to do. We had expensive meals, thirty pounds for two with plenty of wine, and cheap ones, fifteen pounds for two and always with plenty of wine and beer. We ate in smart tourist places and cheaper back street venues. All had a very high standard of food, service and atmosphere, with or without the ubiquitous Gypsy violinist!
We spent eight
pounds on two delicious coffees and two slices of Dobos Torte in the
Gerbeaud Patisserie in Central Pest with it's Art Décor interior.
In contrast we sat on the pavement of a students bar and drank not half
bad Hungarian wine for 50p a glass as we happily watched the world go
by.
I am ashamed to say we didn't make the State Opera House. But then we
didn't make the Danube River trip to Vienna on the Hydrofoil. We didn't
make the trip out to the vast Hungarian plain and the major market town
of Kecskemet. We didn't make any of the numerous excursions on offer,
but there was so much to see and do in Budapest itself. These are all
things to do next time we visit Buda and Pest, the marriage of two halves
forming Budapest, a magical and romantic city. We'll be back!
From five star hotels, self catering, a few hostels, seasonal hostelling
in students' halls of residence and camping, all are available for visitors
to Budapest. There are details here:
Hungarian National
Tourist Office
Embassy of the Republic of Hungary,
46 Eaton Place SW1X 8AL
Tel: 020 782 1032
